St. Helena is Britain’s second oldest colony after, it must be said, Newfoundland (mind you, purists would claim Wales and Ireland were ‘colonies’ long before Newfoundland). Time hasn't stood still, but has passed less quickly than elsewhere.
The little Georgian capital (population about 900) - in parts only a street wide - lies deep in a 'gut' as valleys here are called. You can click on the two shots below (as for all pictures) for a better view. The steps will be explained in another post.
In 1588, the gut was described as 'a marvellous, fair and pleasant valley,' but is actually something of a menace.
On the cliffs above, extensive wire netting now protects the town, I hope.
From the bay, I cross the old castle moat and below the East India Company coat of arms, globe spanning forerunner of today’s multinationals. I'm in a curious remnant of the British Empire.
To my left, the castle, seat of His Excellency the Governor.
I quite like the parking space reserved for 'GOV'.
To right, the oldest, existing (there were churches here before) Anglican Church in the Southern Hemisphere, built in 1774.
Next to the church, Her Majesty's Prison, mainly residence of drunks and minor offenders. Long sentences - there are few - are usually served in the UK.
The first car arrived on St. Helena in 1929. Not quite as antique, but old English cars - Escorts, Cortinas, even an Anglia - still putt-putt about with lots of traditional Land Rovers.
Below the castle walls is a 1645 'post stone' under which letters were left for the next vessel headed in the right direction.
Up Main Street, the modern mail equivalent is in a onetime British Army officers' mess. Stamps and first day covers are a not insignificant part of the island's income.
If you send a letter to the island, make sure it's not just ‘St. Helena,’ but ‘St. Helena Island, South Atlantic Ocean.’ Otherwise, it may end up on St. Helena Island in the American state of South Carolina.
The Postmistress
Post Office
Main Street
Jamestown
Island of St Helena
STH1ZZ
South Atlantic Ocean
I was surprised it has its own post code, but gather it facilitates deliveries from the UK (where there's a sizable St. Helena expat community). ‘Facilitate’ is relative when it takes weeks to send a letter and get a reply.
There is internet, but very slow and, for most in a low wage economy, too expensive. No mobile phones either. Local wags say ‘digital detox’ could be a tourist attraction.
The Royal Mail passes the old market. After a number of collapses, buildings were constructed to resist termites. The cast-iron market was made in England in 1865, shipped out and reassembled.
Here are the Queen Mary Store and The Emporium, two shops stocking an intriguing mix of food, DIY, toys, shampoo and liquor. Canned goods next to plumbing supplies. Fashions near auto parts.
Right now, with the ship just arrived, the rush - such as it is on St. Helena - is on.
Residents swoop on necessities before they disappear. They’ve a long wait until the next cargo shipment from Cape Town. I’m advised to remember early closing on Wednesday and that stores are shut on Sunday.
It seems like an English town from the Fifties, but without the standard (even then) ‘ye olde’ this and that. Jamestown isn’t tarted up for visitors. In fact, in places, it’s a bit ramshackle, which makes it even more appealing.
As everywhere, those with time to spare enjoy the goings-on.
