Tuesday, September 18, 2012

In Napoleon's wake - part thirteen



St. Helena may have a population of 4,000 and only be ten kilometres (six miles) by seventeen (ten), but the British governor doesn't lack perquisites. Plantation House (1792) has housed scads of His Excellencies with plumes and epaulettes and swords. Saints expect their governors to still occasionally look the role.


The current governor seems to have learned the governor trade by being deputy governor in Anguilla and also Bermuda. To be fair, his full diplomatic c.v. is pretty impressive.

His current living quarters are chockablock with memorabilia from centuries of rule. There's a fulltime staff of eight, including parlour and chamber maids.



However, I rather like the front entrance with crisp (potato chip) packages, a novel, tennis balls and dog lead.


Arguably more important than the governor, at least for disrespectful Canadians, is the island's most famous living resident. Jonathan the Giant Tortoise features on a coin. I think this is Jonathan, but even a local historian, here when I am, isn't sure. 


Simon, having got over Napoleon's death, is taking a picture of the governor's house, so I include him for perspective.


Jonathan may be closing on two hundred. He was brought to St. Helena in 1882, when already no spring tortoise, and they're busy planning for his funeral. The obituary has been drafted. Lonesome George's recent death in the Galapagos has rather rattled Jonathan lovers.

The late English writer, Gavin Young, perhaps unkindly described Jonathan as looking ‘like a large boulder.’ Actually, now that he’s in his favourite puddle, he - if it is him - does rather look like a boulder.


Less celebrated tortoises, including one named Speedy, also share the governor's grounds. They seem to like the area near his tennis court.


Tortoises are a useful segue into donkeys. I've always been rather partial to donkeys. Mind you, I've never had to care for one. Anyway, in the old days, St. Helena had lots. Now just a few.


On a misty, no, rainy morning (weather here changes quickly and the rain is warm), I'm helping to walk the donkeys. This is great fun. The little one is Basil.




Mine is Big Headed Barger or Bargy for short. He isn't particularly keen on being photographed, but so far hasn't tried to kick, so he must like me.