Mediterranean 2014 - part seven

Separated by a night's sailing are Almeira and Valencia, Spain, so I'll combine the two.

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Although a hundred and thirty-three years old (it appears to have been the Bodleian Library's copy), my iPad's Handbook to the Mediterranean is definitely useful.

'The town of Almeria (sic) is situated in a valley formed by two hills, crowned by a castle or Alcazaba. It is surrounded by high walls of a picturesque appearance, which, with their cubos, or square towers, are excellent specimens of Moorish military architecture'.

Early Sunday morning, I have Almeira's Alcazaba more or less to myself. That's because everyone else has gone to Granada's Alhambra. Suits me. 

After the Alhambra, the Alcazaba is Spain's second largest Moorish fortress.  

Just beyond the walls is Europe's only desert. Some Lawrence of Arabia scenes were shot here in 1962.

The desert explains why, as in many Arab buildings, a water feature is at the centre. For a little while, I share it with some goldfish and a hopeful cat. Unfortunately, the cat is camera shy and the fish not particularly easy to photograph. 

Down the hill, I pop into the cathedral. I'm initially surprised that, in Catholic Spain, it's so quiet on a Sunday. But the Church has lost much credibility - and, certainly, power - since Franco's departure. The cathedral's typically dark in comparison with its light-filled English counterparts. I look outside for something as a reminder.

Almeira is coming to life. In the cathedral square, these two are having an animated conversation. Likely discussing the price of eggs, but, being Europeans, they look like intellectuals.

A respectable burgués (bourgeois) couple surveys the few passersby.

And I discover one of Almeira's local sports.

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Valencia and Valencia oranges outside the cathedral. 

The Handbook says Valencia's cathedral has a cup thought to be the Holy Grail, a covering for the infant Jesus and arm of St. Luke. This is not enough to entice me inside on a warm autumn day.

Tourists in the sun, possibly also passing up on religious relics.

Nearby, student artists are working on perspective. 

Budding artist and critic.

There may be a future Goya or Picasso or Miró here, but judging by some of the results, one or two would be better off doing an MBA.

Still, they're a cheerful lot ... 

... and the local graffiti's worth a look.

I drift off to the glorious pre-modernist central market. It was designed in 1914, but not completed until 1928.

Valencia has impressive modernist architecture.

Last shot. I like the juxtaposition of these two on their cellphones. 

Next, George Orwell and the Spanish Civil War.