‘To a traveller possessed of some knowledge of the language, and disposed to adapt his tastes to the customs of the country … a tour in Portugal will be both inexpensive and pleasant; one … may find much both to interest and amuse in a (trip), which would introduce him to scenery of the most varied and picturesque kind, and afford him opportunities of observing the quaintness and simplicity of Portuguese peasant life … (To) one who is in pursuit of scenery … no other country in Europe can possess such attractions and such freshness of unexplored beauty’.
(A Handbook for Travellers in Portugal John Murray London 1875)
(A Handbook for Travellers in Portugal John Murray London 1875)
I have come armed with my customary (in digital form) out-of-date travel guide. The guide’s Portuguese phrases will be invaluable. I have already learned how to say, Will you do me the honour to dance the next waltz with me?’ This apparently is, ‘Você vai fazer me a honra de dançar comigo a primeira valsa?’ I look forward to being invited to a ball.
We depart Lisbon on the magnificent bridge first named after dictator António Salazar, then fittingly renamed for the April 1974 revolution.
Inescapable is the statue of Christ, another of Salazar’s pet projects, erected in thanks for Portugal’s astutely managing to avoid choosing sides in World War Two. That said, Portugal was one of the few countries to officially send condolences on Hitler’s death.
Nicknamed ‘the traffic cop’ by irreverent Lisboetas, it suggests the Church’s once powerful position and cozy relationship with Salazar’s regime.
I took this picture of bridge and statue in 2017.
Two hundred or so kilometres south of Lisbon, we spot an old distance stone …
… and know that we are in the western Algarve - the Barlavento - and will soon arrive at Praia de Luz, our base for the next little while.
We’re staying in a holiday home owned by a friend of Ferg’s. It’s comfortable, but don’t be too impressed. Our residence is one of six within the complex.
Here’s the view from my bedroom door.
It may look inviting, but March really isn’t swimming weather, at least not for me. However, the pool’s temperature is nothing compared to my first encounter with the shower. My howls as, still soapy, hot water suddenly becomes frigid are enough to bring Salazar back from the grave.
To compensate we have a view of the Atlantic …
… and - wow! - an extraordinarily straight and impressive palm. I’ve never seen such a palm.
On second thought (actually maybe the fifth thought), it seems unnaturally straight.
A closer look reveals it’s more than unnatural.
The ‘palm’ was erected by Telcabo telecommunications as a ‘camouflaged solution’ for mobile networks. ‘Pines’ and ‘cypresses’ also available. I shall spend the rest of my holiday wondering if I’m looking at fake foliage.
