Wednesday, June 28, 2023

Newfoundland & Labrador - part two


September 11, 2001, the little Newfoundland town of Gander, which could hardly be more different from New York, became inextricably linked with history. North American airspace closed and thousands of transatlantic air passengers more than doubled the town’s population. 

Aside from 9/11 Gander has other claims to fame. During the war it was a stopover for military aircraft being ferried to Britain. Gander played a vital role in Allied victory. 


From the late 1940s to early 60s, Gander could justifiably say it was the ‘Crossroads of the World’. Transatlantic passenger propeller aircraft refuelled here. 



Many were the famous and glamorous who stopped in Gander. Marilyn Monroe, Marlon Brando, James Dean, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra. Even the Queen of Iran, Albert Einstein and Fidel Castro.


In 1959 an extraordinary, ultra modern for the day, departure lounge appeared in the wilds of central Newfoundland. It featured the best of Canadian mid-century design.


And it opened shortly before it was no longer needed. Planes that could fly the Atlantic without refuelling took to the sky.


I had long wanted to see Gander’s recently restored, time capsule lounge. Moscow dates from when Moscow-Havana flights regularly stopped for refuelling (and subsequent defections). 

The clocks remind that Newfoundland and Labrador are a half hour different from adjacent time zones.


Just look at this sleek escalator …


… and displays of Canadian furniture especially designed for the terminal. 




The geometric terrazzo floors might initially escape notice, but are well worth a look.



A 72 foot mural - ‘Flight & Its Allegories’ - by noted Canadian artist Kenneth Lochhead overlooks the lounge.


Lochhead was well ahead of Concord with his hints of supersonic aircraft to come.



Just down the road part of a World Trade Center beam sits outside the town hall. 


It commemorates Gander welcoming and caring for frightened, bewildered strangers from 95 countries who arrived one horrifying, unforgettable day. 


And now, the airport tarmac where there were so many planes they were nearly wingtip to wingtip, is often empty.



In the next post I'm back on the Newfoundland roads.